Written by Isabelle Eder, BFA Styling, Academy of Art University
Through the fog of face powder and smoke of hair appliances, you can just make out Victor Cembellin, heading of makeup for the Academy of Art University NYFW show, and head hair guru Jon Reyman as they were transforming the models backstage.
This season was all about natural beauty and letting the collections speak for themselves. The idea was to give the models a sweaty, lived-in look, almost as if they had done the hair and makeup themselves and then gone out into the humid NYC weather.
Reyman, whose Aveda team transformed the models’ hair, explained the hair concept for the women, “We wanted lots of texture. The hair has this wet and stringy structure, which looks really strong and is very modern.” The models were supposed to look like they had slept in their style and hadn’t washed their hair in a while. The look gives off a decidedly “cool-girl” vibe and is going to be a huge trend for Spring/Summer 2016. To achieve the women’s look, Reyman used Flax Seed Aloe Strong Hold Sculpturing Gel from Aveda. After applying the product, stylists deliberately twisted sections from the top portion of the models’ hair, pinned in place, covered with a stocking cap and slowly set the hair using diffusers.
Although the female models all sported the same hairstyle, men’s looks were separated into two categories: “modern mullet crossed with an alien,” and “French soccer match.” The first look was seen on models with shorter hair, which was made more polished and slicked with the Aveda Men Pure-formance Grooming Cream. Using the same product to achieve a different look, Reyman mussed up the longer haired models to look as if they had just been exercising.
The idea for the makeup was to make a girl who looks like “she’s worked all day, gone to clubs all night and slept in the makeup; the longer it’s in, the cooler it gets,” Cembellin told us. To achieve this look, Cembellin used M.A.C. Casual Color Cream in Keep it Loose to get a muted lip. For the chiseled and sculpted cheekbones that defined the look, the makeup artists contoured with M.A.C. powder in taupe and highlighted cheekbones generously using a highlighter from the same brand. For the eyes the focal point was the messy eyeliner, created by Cembellin by applying eyeliner in a skipping motion to appear as if the model had on last night’s makeup. A fan brush was used with the Haute & Naughty Lash mascara from M.A.C. to create these edgy lashes. Cembellin explained the reasoning behind wanting to make it look like the girls had done their own makeup, “It lets the clothes walk the runway and not the hair and makeup.”